The easiest and fastest way to Darjeeling from New Delhi is to fly to Bagdogra (90km away) and drive up. It takes at least three hours to drive up the mountains to Darjeeling and it's a beautiful trip. The landscape is amazing and the villages you pass through with quaint brightly coloured cottages clinging to the mountain side are like scenes from a story book. You can stop for momos (delicious steamed dumplings) and tea along the way.
Darjeeling has a range of hotels and anything three stars and under can be very basic so if your standards are high go for a four or five star option. Some of the large Raj-era hotels are well regarded and centrally located. We stayed at a small warm and comfortable three star hotel called the Hotel Shangrila Regency. It was in the centre of Darjeeling and they brought us cups of tea whenever we liked!
Flying and driving to Darjeeling, checking in and finding a nearby restaurant for dinner will fill the better part of your first day.

TIPS:  Transport - it's fairly standard for your hotel to send a car and driver to pick you up from the airport but check to see if the price is included in your hotel costs.
Plan ahead - many hotels want you to give them 24 hours notice to book tours for seeing the sights in and around Darjeeling.
Extras - ask for a hotel room with a mountain view.

If you're not waking up to breakfast at your hotel go to Kunga Restaurant (Tibetan) and have the fruit kurd museli - we're still dreaming about it and I am still trying to recreate it. The muesli and everything else on the menu will set you well on your way for a walk through a tea plantation.
If you enjoy the outdoors a tea plantation walk is close to heaven. The air is so clear and the big blue skies are only interrupted by the Himalayas. Everywhere I looked I wanted to take a photo. Visit a nearby tea factory too and sample the brew. We met lots of tea plantation workers bringing their pickings into the factory in baskets on their heads. We were amazed at how tiny the ladies were, and as always they were kind to the kids. People in India adore children and the Darjeeling locals might well win my award for the country's friendliest people.
Have lunch at one of the cafes or restaurants along Nehru Rd and spend the afternoon checking out the local handicrafts, Tibetan shops and market stalls. At the top of the mall in Chowrasta there are pony rides for children. You can also take a walk around Observatory Hill.

TIPS:  Kids- if you're traveling with children under four years of age like us don't bring a stroller as there are lots of stairs. If you have a baby/toddler backpack pack it instead. Also not all cafes/restaurants in India have baby chairs. We travel with one that clamps to the table. They fold flat and are worthwhile.

The Darjeeling Himalayan Railway's 'Toy Train' ride to Ghoom is lots of fun. The steam train leaves Darjeeling twice a day (mid morning and just after noon) in the main tourist season and winds up to the nearby town of Ghoom. It's got to be one of the most scenic train rides in the world - even for non-trainspotting travelers like me the trip was memorable. As for young 'Thomas' fans -they'll be convinced they're riding on 'Gordon' or 'Percy'.
In the afternoon visit the Padmaja Naidu Himalayan Zoological Park. For a quick trip check out the rare and endangered snow leopards (they're beautiful) and the red pandas. If you have more time there are lots of other animals to see.
The Himalayan Mountaineering Institute is next to the Zoo and although I missed it I am told it's worth a visit.
The Hot Stimulating Cafe on the road to the Zoo is a cute no frills place to have fresh momos and tea.

TIPS:  Train ticket- it's best to book your train ticket at the station a day ahead when Darjeeling is busy.
More momos - The Hot Stimulating Cafe runs momo cooking classes.

The visit to Darjeeling's Tibetan Self Help Refugee Centre was for me a highlight of our trip. Visitors are free to wander into the many workrooms and studios where Tibetan refugees are making wool, knitting, building furniture, weaving carpets, painting etc. The refugees are very welcoming and we spent several hours there. All of the items the refugees are making are available to buy in the nearby shop. It's a good place to get meaningful holiday gifts with a good cause behind them.The centre also has an orphanage, school and home for the elderly.
We only went to Darjeeling for four days and it wasn't long enough. We missed out visiting a Buddhist monastery which I was disappointed about. It would be a good afternoon activity.

TIPS:  Tea - if you haven't already bought tea to take home do it now!

Just when you though the views couldn't get any better...Get up early and visit Tiger Hill at sunrise to see a 250km stretch of Himalayan horizon including Mt Everest. Can you believe we missed this?! Your hotel can organise transport and it's only 11km from Darjeeling. It's possible to spend the rest of your day walking back to Darjeeling visiting monasteries and other attractions on the way but if you have small children this might not be very appealing.
Another option if you have older children or aren't traveling with kids is white water rafting (a whole day event) along the Teetsa and Rangeet Rivers. There are several nearby towns including Kalimpong and Kurseong that many travelers recommend for a visit.
Of course you could always spend your last day in Darjeeling sipping tea, eating more momos (I personally can't get enough of them!) and shopping for Tibetan jewelry.

Saying farewell to Darjeeling and making the return journey to New Delhi was like going back through the Narnia wardrobe. Darjeeling is a great little Indian city. The landscape and feel of the place are a world away from life in Delhi and it's a great escape from the bustling chaos. At least five days is needed to experience Darjeeling and even then it's the kind of place you can imagine exploring for longer. We are thinking about returning and traveling on to Nepal.

TIPS:  Say cheese - I wish I'd stopped and taken a few photos of the cute cottages along the mountain road to Darjeeling. Keep your camera handy!